Make a festive crochet robin in this free project

In this section, you'll need to make two wings for the robin.

With 2.25mm hook and A, make a magic loop.

Row 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into loop, turn (6 sts).

Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc, turn. Pull tight on short end of yarn to close loop.

Row 3 (inc): 1 ch, (dc2inc, 1 dc) 3 times, turn (9 sts).

Row 4: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc, turn.

Row 5: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 3 dc, sl st in next dc, turn.

Row 6 (inc): 1 dc in same dc as sl st, 1 dc in next dc, 1 htr in next dc, tr2inc, turn (10 sts).

Row 7: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 5 sts, sl st in next dc, turn.

Row 8 (inc): 1 dc in same dc as sl st, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 1 htr in next dc, htr2inc, tr2inc, turn (12 sts).

Row 9 (inc): 1 ch, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 7 sts, sl st in next dc, turn (13 sts).

Row 10 (inc): 1 dc in same dc as sl st, 1 dc in next 5 dc, 1 htr in next dc, htr2inc, 1 tr in next dc, tr2inc, turn (15 sts).

Row 11 (inc): 1 ch, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 11 sts, sl st in next dc, turn (16 sts).

Row 12 (inc): 1 dc in same dc as sl st, 1 dc in next 9 dc, 1 htr in next dc, htr2inc, 1 tr in next st, tr2inc, turn (18 sts).

Row 13 (inc): 1 ch, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 15 sts, sl st in next dc, turn (19 sts).

Row 14 (inc): 1 dc in same dc as sl st, 1 dc in next 16 dc, dc2inc, turn (20 sts).

Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc in next 19 sts, sl st in next dc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn at the end.

Stage 7: The beak

With 1.25mm hook and A, make 4 ch. Work row 1 around the craft wire.

Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd chain from hook, 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc in end ch, working in the reverse side of the ch, 1 dc in next 2 ch, turn (7 sts).

Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in next dc, sl st in next 3 dc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn.

Stage 8: The eggs

With 1.75mm hook and D, make a magic loop.

Round 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into loop (6 sts).

Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 3 times (9 sts). Pull tight on short end of yarn to close loop.

Round 3: 1 dc in each dc.

Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 3 times (12 sts).

Round 5: 1 dc in each dc.

Round 6 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times (15 sts).

Round 7: 1 dc in each dc.

Round 8 (dec): (Dc2tog, 3 dc) 3 times (12 sts).

Round 9: 1 dc in each dc.

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Stuff egg, pull end of yarn tight to close the opening and fasten off. Repeat the process to make 5-6 eggs.

Embroider speckles on the egg using yarn B. Work a scattering of tiny single stitches that are denser towards the larger end of the egg.

Stage 9: Make the legs 

The birds’ legs are made using wire that is bent into shape and wrapped in yarn. Make sure the wire is not too soft, as it could snap if overworked and may buckle under the weight of the bird.

Start by making a bend in the wire 3⁄8in (1cm) from each end with long-nose pliers. Make three toes by bending the wire back on itself every 5⁄8in (1.5cm). Squeeze together with the pliers. Make a fourth toe the same length at the back of the foot.

Wrap the short length left at each end of the birds’ legs around the ankle to keep the wire toes in position and squeeze the wire end with the pliers. Use the pliers to squeeze the two sharp ends around the top of the wire legs where they will be hidden inside the body, securing them in place. Twist the bird’s feet so they both face the same direction.

Bend the length of wire between the feet into a curved shape to fit inside the body of the bird. Bend the tips of the toes downwards to shape the feet and bend the legs into position.

Starting at the ankle, wind the yarn around the wire. Bring the yarn to the end of each toe and then wind it evenly and tightly back along the length to the ankle. Wrap the yarn over the curved legs and around the toes of the other foot in the same way. Secure the end of the yarn with a dab of all-purpose adhesive and allow to dry.

Stage 10: Stuffing and attaching the legs

Stuff the body firmly, leaving a gap at the opening to insert the legs.

Slip the legs into the opening at the base of the bird and adjust them so the bird stands without tipping over. Add plenty of extra stuffing inside the body until it is firm. Sew together the opening of the body around the legs, adding extra stuffing if necessary.

Stage 11: The eyes

As these birds are decorative and unsuitable for children, glass teddy bear eyes with wire loops can be sewn onto your finished project. If preferred, you can also use buttons made for dolls’ clothes, or beads.

Start by marking the position of both eyes on the bird’s head with glass-headed pins. If using glass eyes with wire loops, use a yarn needle to make a hole at the markers. This will make it easier to insert the wire loop when attaching the eyes.

N.B. Use strong sewing thread to sew on glass eyes, such as upholstery or buttonhole thread, matching the colour of the bird’s head. Check the thread you are going to use does not break easily. Beeswax can be used to strengthen all-purpose sewing thread. Draw the thread across the beeswax a few times to coat it.

Cut a length of strong sewing thread, such as upholstery or buttonhole thread. It should be four times the total measurement of the depth of the head, from front to back, plus approximately 4–6in (10–15cm) extra. Double the thread and pass both loose ends through the wire loop of the glass eye. If using all-purpose sewing thread coated with beeswax, cut the length eight times the total measurement, and double it twice before using it to attach the eyes, as it is finer than the strong sewing thread.

Thread both the ends of thread onto the yarn needle and insert the needle at the point of the marker, right through to the back of the head. Leave the ends of the thread hanging at the back of the head. Attach the second eye in the same way, pulling the threads through to the back of the head, close to the threads of the first eye.